Paper - Preferred folding material
- wolf
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Paper - Preferred folding material
I use foil for almost 99% of my folding, just because it's thin and easy to shape.
Today it finally hit me that being so reliant on foil ain't such a good idea, since it means that I'll never learn to work with other stuff.
Today it finally hit me that being so reliant on foil ain't such a good idea, since it means that I'll never learn to work with other stuff.
- stuckie27
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Guess I just went on a foil spree. I am folding for an african scene and I felt that foil looked the best. I really like the way it shapes the animals, but there are some disadvantages also, It is very diffucult to reverse a mountain fold to a valley and sinks are hard. Sometimes the crumpled look can be distasteful.
I also us lots of Kami, It was what i used exclusively for about 1 year. I guess I like to chose the paper for each particular project.
I vote Foil.
I also us lots of Kami, It was what i used exclusively for about 1 year. I guess I like to chose the paper for each particular project.
I vote Foil.
- wolf
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I guess I should have phrased the question better; what I wanted to ask was, if you're folding a model for the first time, what paper would you normally choose?
For me, unless the folding sequence is very obviously easy (like, 10 steps or less), I'll reach for the foil first. Even during further attempts at a given model though, I still prefer to use foil. Wet folding comes a very very far second.
As a result, I am completely inept at choosing the "best" paper for any given model.
For me, unless the folding sequence is very obviously easy (like, 10 steps or less), I'll reach for the foil first. Even during further attempts at a given model though, I still prefer to use foil. Wet folding comes a very very far second.
As a result, I am completely inept at choosing the "best" paper for any given model.
- Joe the white
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If you are talking about the first time you fold a model, I usually go for something cheap and easy. So it usually ends being copy paper or wrapping paper if I need a large piece. For finished models I have used some tissue foil, but I'm not that great at making it without wrinkles. As for kami, I actually can't even buy it here! I could order it, but it takes a couple months to come in. As a result, what kami I do managed to get my hands on is used very sparingly!
*~Jen~*
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it's really strange that you ask this... I mean, I've started the same discussion here: viewtopic.php?t=26
really really strange
really really strange
Kami because it's so readily available nowadays.
Before though, I used to use normal printing paper (and still do).
I would have voted for tissue foil (which I've only made a few times) but the process of making it is rather tedious. Mind you if someone made me (or if someone sold) tissue foil cheaply than I would vote for it!
Before though, I used to use normal printing paper (and still do).
I would have voted for tissue foil (which I've only made a few times) but the process of making it is rather tedious. Mind you if someone made me (or if someone sold) tissue foil cheaply than I would vote for it!
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- wolf
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Yep, I wish that someone out there sold tissue foil. I know Jake Crowley used to do this about a year or so back; I don't know if he still does this.
I find that making the tissue foil itself isn't very tedious (I use the spray mount and paper roll method). The most annoying part is cutting it into squares. And then after I've done all that, I never get around to using it, just because it's so precious.
There's a website called http://www.uwrap.com that sells rolls of large foil (something like 26 inches by 50 feet!). I just got a few rolls from them. It's thinner than American foil, and it feels like it'll fold well, but I've yet to try out anything with it. Sadly, that's probably going to have to wait until the weekend.
I find that making the tissue foil itself isn't very tedious (I use the spray mount and paper roll method). The most annoying part is cutting it into squares. And then after I've done all that, I never get around to using it, just because it's so precious.
There's a website called http://www.uwrap.com that sells rolls of large foil (something like 26 inches by 50 feet!). I just got a few rolls from them. It's thinner than American foil, and it feels like it'll fold well, but I've yet to try out anything with it. Sadly, that's probably going to have to wait until the weekend.
Yeh cutting into the squares is probably the worst bit. I remember I wanted a very large piece of tissue foil to make the Bahamut. So I got everythhing out, made a few sheets, cut it out , left it to dry etc
The next day I started folding only to realise that I had cut a rhombus instead of a square (so the diagonals did match).
I've been put off using tissue foil since then.
Oh by the way I installed another template (slightly nicer looking) that you can now access once you'ev logged on. Just go to your profile and change it from there.
The next day I started folding only to realise that I had cut a rhombus instead of a square (so the diagonals did match).
I've been put off using tissue foil since then.
Oh by the way I installed another template (slightly nicer looking) that you can now access once you'ev logged on. Just go to your profile and change it from there.
If you've found the forum useful, please consider making a donation.
- wolf
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I finally got around to trying the foil from UWrap; it was less promising than I'd expected. It's still too thick to fold really complex stuff from, and it has a tendency to split around thick edges. It still works better than American foil though. It's also nice, big and sturdy, making it suitable for intermediate display models.
I used to rely on the diagonal folding method to cut foil, but because that doesn't uniquely produce a square sheet, I now use a square and a solid steel ruler. It's a bit more work since you now have to measure the length of the sides, but it gives a better square, plus you don't get the additional crease marks from the diagonal.
I used to rely on the diagonal folding method to cut foil, but because that doesn't uniquely produce a square sheet, I now use a square and a solid steel ruler. It's a bit more work since you now have to measure the length of the sides, but it gives a better square, plus you don't get the additional crease marks from the diagonal.
- OrigamiMagiro
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Foil is my main medium, especially for design.
Foil allows me to have more freedom with the finished model than kami and it's the closest thing you can get to wet folding or tissue foil without the time and effort.
Usually I start with 6" American foil for most things (in other words, if it is a Satoshi Bahamut, don't), or I use it in the early, early stages of designing a fairly simple non-boxpleated model. But when it comes to insects, I always go Japanese 6". I think it is the second best thing in the world to design from (First being 10" but it is too expensive to use exclusively).
Once I really like something, I might break out some Origamido paper and wet fold but that is quite a rarity.
Foil allows me to have more freedom with the finished model than kami and it's the closest thing you can get to wet folding or tissue foil without the time and effort.
Usually I start with 6" American foil for most things (in other words, if it is a Satoshi Bahamut, don't), or I use it in the early, early stages of designing a fairly simple non-boxpleated model. But when it comes to insects, I always go Japanese 6". I think it is the second best thing in the world to design from (First being 10" but it is too expensive to use exclusively).
Once I really like something, I might break out some Origamido paper and wet fold but that is quite a rarity.
I use colored copy paper more than other papers, because it is easily available in my choice of colors and it is substantial. By no means is it the only paper I use. I use kami, quite often, as well as foil giftwraps, memo cube paper, mulberry bark paper, and specialty "laser jet papers," such as those with blue sky backgrounds or holographic patterns. It all depends on the model. There is a suede or velveteen type material found in the scrapbooking section of some hobby shops that makes fantastic Kawasaki roses.
- wolf
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Burger wraps are another good source of foil. They generally come in large sheets (10" or more, largest I've used is 14"x16"). Drawback is, they're only sold in huge quantities, so you'll have to spend around US$70-$80 for a minimum order of 1000 sheets, but such a huge amount lasts forever (and still cheaper, per square meter, than regular kami and Japanese/American foil).
Foldingwise, it lies somewhere between tissue foil and wax paper (it's essentially a trilayer sheet, plastic/foil/paper). It's slightly thicker than Japanese foil, but is floppier and holds a crease less well. Although that can be considered an advantage because it's easy to "rub out" unnecessary crease marks. One problem is that the foil and paper layers aren't held together strongly so they tend to separate at the edges, but a quick squirt of spray mount on the paper side fixes this (and also stiffens the paper up somewhat).
Foldingwise, it lies somewhere between tissue foil and wax paper (it's essentially a trilayer sheet, plastic/foil/paper). It's slightly thicker than Japanese foil, but is floppier and holds a crease less well. Although that can be considered an advantage because it's easy to "rub out" unnecessary crease marks. One problem is that the foil and paper layers aren't held together strongly so they tend to separate at the edges, but a quick squirt of spray mount on the paper side fixes this (and also stiffens the paper up somewhat).